Monday, March 19, 2007

arizona


hi guys! this one is in english since there is hebrew here. i'm in my fifth night at jessica's grandpa magnificant house in tucson arizona. tomorrow we're getting up very early to drive six hours to the grand canyon. so far it has been a great holiday. entering the plane in chicago winter and getting down in the desert with over 30 degrees... (well, i'm lying a little bit, because the day before we left chicago was one the warmest ever for the season). The heat makes me feel so much more at home, and the atmosphere here is much more free and easy going then in chicago. still waiting for my chance to live in the dessert. the university of arizona doesn't look like a bad option.



We enjoy here the beautiful house, and we work (brought some studies with us), and travel around a little (take a look at the arizona specialty - thesauago cactuses), and eat well. Jessica's grandpa starts looking for excuses to get his first beer around 12 at noon ("well, i'm entitled for this beer, you know why? i'm a great fan of paul newman and he was a big beer drinker...") and at 5pm anounces the martini happy hour. we also spend some time with her uncle and his family, and it is feels great to have a family atmosphere and talk to people who are not students or professors.



the grand canyon and sadona, where we're spending our last night, should be among the most beautiful places on the planet, so wait for the photos. and now i gotta go to sleep.

Thursday, February 08, 2007

כמה נמוך אפשר לרדת?

שוב שלום. כשהיה מינוס 10 חשבתי לעצמי שאחרי כל האיומים החורף פה לא נורא כל כך. אפילו במינוס 15 יש משהו מרענן בלהתעטף בכל האביזרים ולשייט על האופניים. לא סיבה להסתגר בבית כמו שפחדתי. אבל בסוף השבוע האחרון למדתי שכשזה יורד מתחת למינוס 20 אז כן, זה כבר כן נורא. כל חלק עור שחשוף לאוויר פשוט כואאבבב.

ודוקא בסוף השבוע הזה, הקר ביותר עד עכשיו, נסענו למיניאפוליס, הקרה יותר משיקגו, למשפחה של ג'סיקה. . נהגנו 7 שעות ו-670 ק"מ, שזה מאילת למטולה ועוד 200, והגענו לאמא של ג'סיקה לארוחת ערב. ישנו אצל אמא והחבר שלה והשתעשענו עם הוקאי הכלב, ויצאנו לארוחת ערב גם עם אבא ואשתו. היה כיף גדול לצאת קצת משכונה ולשנות אווירה, לחוות משפחתיות ולהתפנק. החיים הסטודנטיאליים מנותקים קצת מהעולם האמיתי, וזה נחמד להזכר. בדרך חזרה, בנקודה מסויימת הטמפרטורה הגיעה למינוס 30. אגב, כל המספרים הם לפני שלוקחים בחשבון את הרוח, שמורידה עוד 10-20 מעלות. הבעיה בטמפרטורות האלה היא שאי אפשר לנסוע עם החימום מכוון אליך, כי אם לא מחממים את השמשה הקדמית מצטברת עליה שכבה של קרח תוך כדי נסיעה. המפגש הראשון בין הגוף שלי לטמפרוטורות האלו הסתיים בשפעת, שגרמה לנו להשאר יום נוסף במיניאפוליס.
מחר יש לי מבחן בסטטיסטיקה, ובשבועות הקרובים כמות מדאיגה
של עבודות לכתוב. יש רגעים שזה מרגיש בשליטה, ואחרים שזה טונה על הראש ומתחשק לבעוט בהכל. עד עכשיו העבודות היו בעיקר ניתוחים ביקורתיים של מאמרים וספרים.יש לי עכשיו שניים ארוכים שבהם אני מפתח רעיונות משלי, מה שיותר מלחיץ וטעון רגשית. כמו תמיד בחרתי כוונים הרפתקניים שדורשים הרבה עבודה ולא ברור היכן יסתיימו. המממ.. צריך לישון.


>
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Monday, January 22, 2007

עדכונים קרים מהשטח

אהלן!
עוד סופשבוע נגמר. לא הספקתי הרבה בלימודים, אבל היה נחמד. אתמול ג'סיקה ואני בישלנו ארוחת גורמה צימחונית אצלה בבית לעוד שישה חברים והיה טעים וכיף. לארח בשיקאגו זה עוד שלב קטן בלהרגיש כאן בבית. חוץ מזה נפגשתי היום עם שתי ישראליות שלומדות פה אנתאופולוגיה, והרשת מתרחבת לאיטה.
האופוריה של השבוע הראשון התחלפה בכמה ימים של דאון והשבוע האחרון התייצב במקום טוב באמצע. מנסה לשמור על היציבות, לא לצפות ליותר מדי ולהעריך את מה שיש. עוד שינוי שנראה שעובד טוב בשבילי זה לצאת בבוקר ולעבוד (ז"א ללמוד) בספרייה ולא בבית. הרבה יותר קל לשמור ככה על המתח והמוראל. ככה היה סופ"ש כיף ומעיננין אבל אני מרגיש את הלחץ בבטן של כל מה שלא הספקתי. ננסה לתת שבוע יעיל.
לילה טוב ונשיקות.

Monday, January 08, 2007

מתחילים מחדש

אהלן!!
אני מחדש את הבלוג, בתקווה שזה מסמל את תחילתה של תקופה שפויה יותר.
אכן, בינתיים החזרה בהחלט מוצלחת. אני בסופו של סופשבוע שחלקו הגדול זמן איכות נהדר עם ג'סיקה, וחלקו הגדול האחר הוא כמובן לימודים. החיבור מחדש עבר בהצלחה ונראה שחזרנו למקום עמוק יותר.
היה כיף גם לחזור ללימודים, והכל נראה קל יותר מלפני שלושה חודשים. ובכלל, יש הרגשה שהפער בין טל של ישראל וטל של שיקגו הצטמצם.
כמובן, גם הקשיים לא נעלמו. הסמינר שלא סיימתי בארץ הולך ללוות אותי כנראה בחודשיים הבאים ולקחת משאבים משאר הקורסים. אני שוב פוגש את התסכול הרגיל שבקריאה האיטית שלי. ושוב הקושי של להבין מה אומרים ולהשתלב בקבוצה של אמריקאים שמדברים ביניהם מהר בקונטקסט חברתי (שזה כולל את החבר'ה מבכיתה). אבל לא נורא. נתמודד.
שיהיה שבוע טוב ונשיקות.

Monday, September 25, 2006

שנה טובה

ראש השנה ומחר אני מתחיל ללמוד. ההרגשה היא כמו ברכבת הרים, כשמטפסים לאט לאט לראש המגדל, ואז יש את הרגע הזה, שהכל שקט ואתה יודע שעוד שנייה הדברים יתחילו לקרות בקצב מטורף ותתהפך לך הבטן.
אני כאן כבר כמעט ארבעה שבועות, שזה הרבה לפני כולם, מה שהוכיח את עצמו כהחלטה נכונה. פרט נוסף ולאכבר הרגשה של איזה בסיס יציב - החדר נחמד (ראו תמונות), אני מכיר את השכונה, יש לי הרבה מכרים וחברים, אני מכיר את קבוצות המדיטציה באזור. קצת פרטים שלא הספקתי לכתוב - קיבלתי את החדר המשובח שרציתי - סוויטת המקלחת - שהוא קצת גדול מהרגיל (15 מ"ר) ועם מקלחת צמודה שאני חולק עם עוד שותף אחרי משא ומתן ושבועיים של המתנה קיבלתי גם מיטה זוגית. פחות חשוב הוא שיש כאן חלון שפונה למקלחות של הבנות, וערבים של ראות טובה אפשר להציץ על כמה מהסודות היותר כמוסים של אוניברסיטת שיקגו.
בינתיים פגשתי גם את חברי לכיתה, ומאלה שיצא לי להכיר מקרוב מאוד התלהבתי. אנשים נחמדים, חכמים וסקרנים שחולקים איתי את התשוקה לסוציולוגיה. הרקעים מגוונים (הרבה אסייתים) ובינלאומיים והפרספקטיבות מגוונות. הגיל הממוצע הוא 25 בערך, ואני מרגיש שיש לי יתרון מסוים של בגרות. במיוחד יצא לי להתקרב למוניקה, שמופיעה בתמונה עם הרובוט האהוב עליה.
עומס הלימודים הצפוי יהיה מטורף - קיבלתי את הסילבוס של אחד הקורסים - ספר שלם ושלושה מאמרים בשבוע... בנוסף איתגרתי את עצמי כשוויתרתי על הקורסים לסטטיסטיקה במחלקה לסוציולוגיה ובמקום אני לוקח קורסים מתקדמים במחלקה לסטטיסטיקה. התבשרנו גם שבמחלקה החליטו לקצר את תכנית הדוקטורט ולהוריד את הממוצע מתשע לשבע שנים... אני מאוד נרגש להתחיל וגם קצת חושש ומתוח, אם כי תחושת הבטן שלי טובה ואני דרוך כמו חיית טרף שמוכנה לבלוע את הכל.

כרגע אני יוצא לארוחת ערב של המחלקה לכבוד תחילת הנה, בבית של אחד הפרופסורים, וזאת הזדמנות לפגוש את כולם באווירה לא פורמלית. מאחל לכולכם ולעצמי שנה טובה ופורייה!

Monday, September 11, 2006

הסביבה החדשה

כמעט שבועיים כאן, ודברים לאט לאט מתקדמים. הרבה מהסידורים כבר מאחורי ועדיין לא מעט לפני, אבל הלימודים מתחילים רק בעוד שבועיים כך שיש זמן. החבילות הגיעו מהארץ כך שרוב הדברים שלי כבר כאן (שתי חבילות של ספרים ודיסקים יגיעו בהמשך דרך הים) וזה מתחיל להרגיש בבית. אני עדיין מחכה למיטה זוגית (כמעט כל החדרים כאן הם מיטת יחיד) כדי לסדר את החדר סידור פחות או יותר סופי. היום אני מתכנן לנסוע לדאונטאון כדי לקנות מצעים, כשמסתבר שזו משימה לא קלה – שיטת המצעים כאן היא שונה, וצריך ללמוד את ההבדלים בין מבחר של פריטים שונים ומשונים - flat sheet, fitted sheet, comforter, quilt, duvet, sham, bed skirt, coverlet – רק בשביל לגלות שבסופו של דבר אי אפשר להשיג כאן שמיכת פוך ראויה לשמה.


לקח לי קצת זמן להשתחרר מהבלבול ולהבין שכשאומרים לנסוע לדאונטאון בעצם מתכוונים צפונה. הדאונטאון הוא למעשה מרכז העיר, אבל הוא דרומי ביחס לרוב השכונות ה"טובות" – הלבנות/עשירות/אופנתיות – שנמצאות בצפון. השכונה שלי, הייד פארק, היא מובלעת אלטיסטית בתוך אזור שחור. באופן כללי הלבנים בשיקאגו הם מיעוט והשחורים וההיספאנים הן קבוצות בערך שוות בגודלן. שיקאגו מאופיינת בהפרדה גזעית ואתנית ברורה בין אזורים שונים ובין מעמדות שונים. בשכונה שלי למשל ניתן לראות שהרוב הגדול של התושבים לבן, אולם נותני השירותים באזור – עובדי התחזוקה במעונות, מוכרים בחנויות ומלצרים – הם בעיקר שחורים. להייד פארק יש גבולות ברורים – אם עברת את רחוב 60 בדרום (אני ב-59), או את cottege
grove במערב, הנוף האנושי משתנה בבת אחת. עשיתי סיור בגטו (מותר רק ביום אם אתה לא רוצה שישדדו אותך) בדרך לביטוח לאומי להגיש בקשה ל-social security number. חוץ מהצבע שמתכהה, האנשים נראים פחות שמחים, פחות בריאים, הרבה עוני ועליבות. אצל מעט אנשים קלטתי תחושה של כבוד עצמי, ואצל הרבה תחושה של חוסר תכלית ושעמום.

לשמחתי, אני נמצא בצד הנכון של החיים. הייד פארק היא שכונה מקסימה ומטופחת. הארכיטקטורה מרשימה, האנשים מחייכים והמרחבים מוריקים. האוניברסיטה היא לא מתחם מגודר כמו בארץ, אלא הבניינים שלה שלובים בשכונה בין בנייני מגורים, חנויות וכנסיות. שיקגו התפתחה מאוחר ביחס למרכזים של החוף המזרחי, וכך גם האוניברסיטה נוסדה רק בסוף המאה התשע עשרה, כ-250 שנה אחרי הארווארד. מלכתכילה היא נבנתה בסגנון נאו-גותי שנראה כבר אז עתיק במופגן. היום, אחרי 100 שנה, כבר אפשר לראות על הקירות את הקיסוס (IVY) שנתן לאוניברסיטאות האייוי-ליג את שמן. לייסוד המאוחר של האוניברסיטה היתה תוצאה נוספת – שאיפה לייחודיות, חדשנות ולבידול, ודגש על אינטלקטואליות (בניגוד ללימודים מעשיים כמו הנדסה). מאפיין זה נשאר עד היום, והמחלקה לסוציולוגיה מעודדת את חבריה להעז ולהיכנס להרפתקאות אינטלקטואליות אשר במקומות אחרים היו זוכות להסתייגות (לא במקרה דווקא כאן התלהבו ממני).


באופן כללי אני מאוד נרגש מהלימודים המתקרבים, ואני מאפשר לעצמי רפיון מסוים שאמור לאפשר לי להידרך מחדש בשנה הדחוסה שמחכה לי. הקורסים נראים מרתקים וקשה לבחור רק שלושה ברבעון. היועץ שהצמידו לי לשנה הראשונה הוא העורך הראשי של אחד משני כתבי העת האקדמיים החשובים בארה"ב (פרסום באחד מהם מהווה סגולה לשגשוג ואריכות ימים בין כותלי מגדל השן) וכנראה אחד האנשים החזקים בעולם הסוציולוגיה. חוץ מזה מספרים שהוא אדם מבריק, רחב אופקים ומנחה טוב – מה עוד אפשר לבקש?
טוב, כמובן ששוב בקושי הספקתי לכתוב מה שרציתי, וקריאה נוספת נתנה לי את ההרגשה שהפתיחה קצת טרחנית, אבל אני אשחרר את זה לפני שאני הולך לישון ואתבל בכמה תמונות מהשכונה.
לילה טוב.

Monday, September 04, 2006

התחלה

טוב. אז אחרי כמעט שבוע בשיקאגו שאני לא מצליח להביא את עצמי לכתוב אז הנה אני יושב והולך להוציא מפה משהו. ואפשר לומר שזה סימן טוב. החיים סוחפים מדי בשביל לעצור ולכתוב אותם. באופן כללי התחלה של התאקלמות, והתרגשות גדולה – חיים חדשים מתחילים להתרקם – וזה נראה מגניב!!!


הימים הראשונים היו קצת קשים ועמוסים בסידורים, עם תחושות של בדידות ושל מאבק הישרדות, אבל אחרי בערך יומיים וחצי התחלתי להרגיש בבית, להכיר חברים וליהנות. אני מוצא את עצמי הולך במסדרונות ולפי ההבעות של האנשים מולי אני מבין שמרוח לי חיוך על הפנים.


למשל, לא מזמן חזרתי מערב הסיום של פסטיבל הג'אז של שיקאגו, והמופע האחרון היה פשוט מעולה. יצאתי עם שלוש בחורות שגרות כאן. אתם יכולים לראות בתמונות את ליז השיקגואית ואת למייה הלבנונית-שיעית (כמה מוזר לצאת לבלות עם מישהי חודש אחרי שהמדינה שלי הפציצה את השכונה של המשפחה שלה...) שתיהן לומדות אנתרופולוגיה קלינית (כן, גם אני לא בדיוק הבנתי מה זה) אבל הדמות החשובה יותר, פאולה הקולומביאנית, מסתתרת מאחורי המצלמה.

יצא לי להסתובב כאן עם כמה אנשים, כשעם חלק הכימיה עבדה יותר ועם כמה היא עבדה פחות, אבל לשמחתי ולמזלי פגשתי מישהי שנראה שהולכת להיות חברה טובה. פאולה לומדת שנה מעלי במחלקה לסוציולוגיה ומתכוננת עכשיו לבחינות האימתניות של תחילת שנה ב' (שמכסות עבודות חשובות בעשרה תחומים עיקריים בסוציולוגיה – ביבליוגרפיה של כ-5000 עמודים). היא קרובה אלי בתחומי העניין שלה – תיאוריה ותרבות, ובגישה שלה – נלהבת ואינדיבידואליסטית. ככל הנראה, שני המאפיינים האלו אינם כה שכיחים אפילו בקרב תלמידי דוקטורט. היא משלבת אישיות צבעונית (עם העדפה ברורה לסגול), נטיות פילוסופיות, ומזג דרום אמריקאי עליז ותוסס.
עד כמה תוסס למדתי היום כשראינו ביחד משחק של בוקה ג'וניורס, הקבוצה הארגנטינאית האהובה עליה (היא הסבירה לי שבאנגלית אין מילה ראויה ל"אינצ'ה" שזה פחות או יותר "אוהדת"). כשראיתי באיזו מעורבות רגשית והתלהבות היא חיה את המשחק הבנתי שכנראה היא צודקת. יש לה יותר מ-350 קלטות וידיאו של כדורגל, והיא נסעה לארגנטינה במיוחד כדי לראות את הדרבי של בואנוס איירס, בוקה (או בחיבה - בוקיטה) נגד ריבר פלייט. בוקה הפסידה, אבל זה היה שווה. חוץ מזה היא הוציאה כספר את עבודת הגמר של התואר הראשון שלה (בתיאוריה של כתיבת היסטוריה), הרצתה עליה בכנסים בעולם, ומאמר שלה אפילו תורגם לסינית. אגב, יש כאן הרבה סינים במעונות, אבל עוד ממש הצלחתי להתיידד עם מישהו מהם.

טוב, כבר מאוחר. הרוח הכללית חיובית כמו שאפשר להבין. סיפרתי סיפור אחד, ויש עוד הרבה קטנים ומעניינים – ברלין וניו יורק, החדר שלי, האוניברסיטה, העיר - אבל נטפטף אותם לאט לאט. בינתיים כמה תמונות מפסטיבל הג'אז.

לילה טוב משיקאגו.

London

here's one just before i'm continuing to berlin (the alarm clock will wake me up in 3 hours).

i'm having a great time here with much relaxation, socialization, good food, good drinks and good laughs. freedom from serious responsibilities is something i havn't had for such a long time, and it is a pure bliss for me!

got here after a white night before my flight from israel, been packing until sunrise, and finished everything reasonably well. thanks again for the beautiful last evening and for all your help. KADIMA BOZEZIM!!

as i planned, the first 24 hours were mostly about chilling out, sleeping and recovering, including a quiet dinner in a local bar with ilan and annie, his beautiful and pleasant girl. as you will see, i was taken care of quiet well.

next day a slow and easy morning, after who knows how long. there's a beatiful balcony here and it was very easy to enjoy it and give up exploring london. then, an afternoon train to colchester, a small town an hour from london, to meet sara, a good english friend i met last summer in dharamsala.
asa always it was pleasant, interesting and funny. much drinking, much laughing, jam session with her friend who plays a blues harmonica, funny games and more drinks until the small hours. next day a trip around colchester, and i'm getting to know the english country and some local charachters.

i'm back in london around 16:30, just when ilan finishes his business, and i'm going directly to the beautiful area of primrose hill for the first drink of the weekend. we are meeting friends at 19:30 for a dinner at the carribean restaurant, and at the meantime ilan takes annie (ilan's girl, remember?) and me to a tour in primrose hill, to see his favorite spots and bars. we're getting to dinner quiet warmed up and with a lot of alcohol in our blood. the owner is ilan's friend, and a world class expert for rum, so we are switching now to rum coctails. the friends are gathering. there are 8 of us, all except me live in london, none is english, and ilan and me are the only 2 from the same country. most of them do finance. they are nice and smart fellows, and the evening is funny and pleasant. The last part in ilan's production is a great fringe performance in the round house, just around the corner. before I go to sleep I enjoy some reading, another pleasure I neglected recently.

I take the next half day resting, although there is a beautiful sunny day in London. I join joaana, a friend of ilan to lunch with 2 girlfriends, and am quiet bored as they're having their hard-core girl talk. An afternoon nap, and there's another event in the London financiers scene. a birthday dinner, I'm the only guy in a girls' table again, but this time the conversation is much more enjoyable. Ilan and annie are leaving at 23:30, and I'm almost joining them, but in a short while I'm finding myself in a Londoner party tour with Joanna and 3 more people I met half an hour before. The scene is quite exciting, I'm alone in the big world, and we're getting to a private party in an amazing penthouse with a hard to imagine view over the river Thames and the Tower Bridge. The mingling is going on and it's sometimes a bit too much for me. Here's a polish girl, there's a guy from Belgium. Banking is usually the occupation. Joanna is talking half an hour with some guy while I'm switching from the Castillo del Diablo to a glass of water, but then commanded by Magda to join a round of vodka-red bull. After a while Joanna joins me and we're sneaking outside to culminate the night in her place.

The next day is today, and I visited my friend noam who just came back from sri lanka with his originally sri lankan girlfriend. After that I met ilan in Stamford Bridge and saw Chelsea beating Manchester City 3:0 in the first game of the football season.

That's it. Quiet intensive, but there was a lot of laid back time in the middle. And tomorrow morning - Berlin!!

Friday, September 09, 2005

the greek way


just a week ago i was having my 13 hours busride from parvati to delhi, and then it was delhi, amman, tel-aviv and athens. damn tiring, oncluding one and a half days in tel aviv with condensed reunions, and a stressing overbooked flight from amman to tel-aviv that made me make it through land.

however, i am trying to recover here in athens, with the special local passionate, hedonistic and laid-back lifestyle. souvlaki (grilled meat), tzaziki (sheep yogurt based salad), rocky nudist beaches and fresh vegtebles. we all here share the passion for food, and there are local friends and two world-class shefs around so the standard for food is very high. i am having a special diet to recover from the exhausting way - it starts with beer during brunch and lunch, in early afternoon we turn to ouzo, and on sunset the bottles of wine are opened. not easy, but a man got to do what a man got to do. the greek believe in long time sitting in the ouzeries with a few mazzettes, and having a slow and heartly conversation.


there are 3 of us now - meni, ori and myself, and we are all very excited about the reunion which will be completed tomorrow when we will turn to skiathos, an island with one of the 5 best beaches in the world, and one with a wild singles scene. as the title that sara from dharamsala suggeted for the trip - from amonastery to a whorehouse... from cutting off your desires to setting them free.

we spent today 2 hours just in the markets to pick some ingredients for the light early supper which is about now... so i will turn now to the real thing.. i am quiet dizzy so maybe it is the time to open a bottle of white wine to refresh myself.

Sunday, September 04, 2005

indian finale

it is delhi, 5 hours before the taxi is picking me up to the airport. been here two days, tried to recover from the 13 hours night-bus from parvati valley, and gain some strength for the 2.5 days delhi-amman-tel-aviv-athens tour. chilling out in a 35 degrees and 15 million people city is not a simple thing - some locals do it by taking beds out to the packed and smokey streets and lying down for a siesta - but somehow my time here has passed quiet pleasently, at the cost of a few extra dollars above the planned budget. yesterday was spent lazily and dizzily, mostly moving between resturants and internet places (after a week and a half of being disconnected), and reading "the curious inceident of the dog in the night time", the only novel on this trip so far. today was also relaxed, although i hanged around old delhi and took care of some last arrangements.

after completing my last post from dharamsala, i had a second nice, yet more modest goodbye dinner with sara (who is healthy again and having a wild journey in rajastan as these lines are being written) and carine - sara's brazillian neighbour from the guest house who shared the responsibility of taking care of her. carine (pronounced carini) has a shop for indian clothes on the beach in bahia. in the brazilian winter (which is now) she comes to india for a few months to buy some fresh merchandice and travel, and in summer you can find her spending the days on the beach and opening her prosperous shop at 18:00 o'clock. however, this adorable lifestyle is threatened by a new calling that seems to have come upon her - bringing yoga to brazil. after years of practicing capoeira, she discovered yoga two years ago, and that was love from the first site (having practiced with her i can definitely confirm it). the brazilians, as she says, are all about the heart, though with very little conciousness; yoga seems to be a great contribution to this culture, and somehow without any effort from her side she is already known as the authority in her area for indian wisdom and alternative lifestyle.

so after dinner i took the night-bus from dharamsala to parvati (i am lucky to be able to sleep in these quaking things), tried to avoid the israeli settlements in the area (manali, kasol), and managed to make it to pulga before next noon. pulga is a beatiful (see picture for an areal view) and relatively quiet place (the reports i got was that it is the most quiet village around - however, travelers' reports turn up to be a tricky thing, since once a place gains the reputation of a being peaceful it begins to attract more travellers), but though scenery was realy magnificant, the overpacked israeli scene was less appealing. 90% of the travellers are israelis (the second large group, the italians, will arrive in two weeks when the new harvest of charas - the highest quality marijuana product - will be released), most of them are in their early twenties, and they are usually gathered in large groups, do a lot of drugs and listen to loud music. after the quiet atmosphere and the lovely and like-minded friends i had around me in dharamsala, it was really annoying to hear from the beautiful sunflowers and marijuana plants garden outside my guest house high-volume shlomo artzi, and conversations about drugs and selling fake pictures around the world. of course it wasn't always that bad, and as we know there are also nice israelis, but more often then not during those 8 days in parvati, i was struggling to find my quiet corners apart from the scene. and in very small places it can be hard sometimes. there is always the option of walking 50 meters and being alone in nature, which is great sometimes, but when you feel like having civilization around you, it would rather be a nice one.

after one night in pulga i took the 5 hours track to khirganga, the legendary hot springs up in the mountains, which is the main destination for some visitors in india. i got there in the late afternoon, tired, breathless and completely wet from sweat and the rain that fell down in the last hour of my climbing (have you ever tried to trek with a backpack, guitar and umbrella?) i got myself a room in the ashram near the waterfalls (the place is holy for shiva, and sadhus - indian holy men - come there as pilgrims and get a place to stay and free meals, probably funded by the income from foreign tourists), which is the most quiet among the 4 places you can stay, and looked eagerly for the bath. but there were no baths, there was the hot springs - a steamy pool on the top of a green fieldy slope between forested mountains and a huge cliff (i couldn't find a decent photo in the net, but wait till i develop my own...) the (verrrry) hot, slightly sulfur odored water melted my aching mussles, the rain went down, the view was stunning, and then the setting sun came out from the clouds, masking the valley and the far-away snowy peaks with yellow, and creating two large rainbows.

that was enough for me to decide to stay there for 4 day, and give up trying to do the spiti valley really quickly. i had good time generally, though again with some hardships with the local israeli scene. but there were many beautiful moments, like the nights playing music and singing with my two neighbours, or chanting praises to shiva with the indians around the ashram fire at night.

by a way, khir = rice pudding (with milk), and ganga = river, or water. one legend says that the place called khirganga because you can cook rice in the water. another one tells that shiva used to meditate in the place, and then the spring produced khir. but when he left it people started fighting on ruling the place, so he turned it into a hot water spring.

in the last day i joined a group and had a track up to bunbuni before going down to sleep in kalga village. that was one of the best trekking days i have ever had, very reach in views and with the attraction of a frozen river on the way. again, one of the israeli guys carried an i-pod (a new generation tiny music player) and speakers and filled the air with testostron soaked music. the two nights in kalga were generally nice, and i found a quiet and relatively isolated guest house, with a very nice israeli couple on their honey-moon (they were met in goa 3.5 years ago).

that's it. it is always less then i want to tell, but you know dead lines, they have their own agendas. and this is also the dead line for this visit in the east. i still don't realise that everything that is now so obvious will soon be but an exotic memory. but i am happy to come home and say hello (there were some days that i phantazised on getting home just for a shower and a sleep in my bed, and returning here next morning). and of course - there's the reunion in greece on its way. never a dull moment...

Thursday, August 25, 2005

dharamsala government hospital

been here for two more days. sarah stayed atthe hospital for two nights with pain in her lower stomach (mom, i hope you made it from the title to this sentence without having a heart attack), and i stayerd around to help. the doctors couldn't tell whether it was an appendix (apendecit) problem, or a amebic infection, and the idea of having an appendix surgery in a public hospital didn't look that bright. however, sarah is free again and feeling much better.

i also had chance to rest in these two days (i tried to keep the wonderful taste of the goodbye party and not mingle to much in the social life), and complete my souvenier shopping. furthermore, an indian government hospital is also one corner of the world worth a look (preferably not as a patient) - you can enjoy thge company of monkeys entering from the balconied to share the food with the patients, the nurses spilling spare blood on the floor, and some more pleasant scenarios. did you know that in a public hospital in india every patient must have at least one attendant, because the workforce is too small? of course there are no extra beds for attendants, and it is impressive to see the indian families stay together in these uncomfortable conditions (we came in the evening and the morning, but didn't stay for the night). the attendanty shoud take the prescripts and buy every single item used in the medical treatment - fresh needles, infusion liquids and medicines - in the hospital drugstore.

this time it looks like i'm really going away, since the bus is leaving in less then three hours. khirganga hot springs - here i'm coming!

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

gratefulness

leaving dharamsala tonight after two weeks, which has been, as might already be understood, fascinating in their richness, beauty and fun. nevertheless, it is time to leave what feels home now, and move on. the remaining of my scarce time in india will be dedicated to the kullu and spiti vallies, regions of high-scale unspoiled nature which are considered among the most beautiful in india, that is, the most beautiful on our planet.

if i am not getting to the internet, it is because there's always something else to do, and it never feels like stopping the natural rythm of things and sitting in front of the screen. the same is true for most of the touristic attractions of dharamsala - the dalai lama's temple & residence, the beutiful walks to triund and the waterfalls, the tibetan children's village - all will have to wait for my next visit. my expirience here was about people, yoga, meditation, music, walking in the hills, more people, introspecting and processing what i'm going through, and responding to whatever the moment brings.

yesterday night, my last here, was a perfect goodbye party. we had a long and relaxed dinner at the relatively fancy ashoka resturant, with all the main figures of my life here. sarah and martin are also leaving today, each in their own direction, though there's a slight chance that sarah catches me up later in the mountains. shachar and shirly are staying here to continue their studies. shachar is the israeli guy i met in kopan (see my previous post "community life" for a color portrait) who became here my friend and neighbour, and who maintains strict and intensive discipline of meditation / panchakarmic purification / healing & clarvoiance studies. we meet daily in the guest house or the meditation group, sharing our expiriences and inspirations, and mirroring each other from our different points of view - he with his uncompromising spiritual diet, and i with my relatively earthy interpersonal one. yesterday as usual, he was the first to withdraw to bed, saying goodbye before embarking on a week of silence. shirly practices here yoga and studies ayurveda, traditional indian medicine, in one-on-one lessons with an upper-class indian lady. our short acquaintance here left a delicate aftertaste, and shall probably be further explored in tel aviv in a couple of months.

nynke and suzan, two lovely dutch girls i first met in kathmandu, also joined us after a while. nynke and i became quiet close recently, especially after that fullmoon private ceremony we had up in the woody hills. i think we handled our 5 days relationship quiet bravely, succeeding to have an authentic touch without getting overdramatic. it is a fine balance, as well as a crazy one, but it bears its own lesson.

i wish i had the common photograph from yesterday to illustrate the story and present the people, but it will have to wait, since scanning facilities here are not as developped as in kathmandu. the evening went on as the conversation moves between silly jokes, discussions about third-world development strategies, and the debut of "50 ways to leave your guru" that sarah, martin and me featured ("just quit that retreat pete, close your third eye guy, it's done when your dead fred, oh listen to me...") when only the three of us were left, we took a night walk up to the waterfalls, and sat down for an inspired jam session with a guitar and a flute, watching the dark valley and the moon rising up from behind the range. and then back to mcleodganj to meet nynke, passing through the shiva temple and saying goodnight to the statue of hannuman, king of monkeys.

it is funny how these strong common expiriences bring people together in such a short time. it is even more funny that i may not see some of them ever again...

the last post ended with me and my yoga mates drinking chai at the peace cafe, our bodies soft and open, and we are making jokes and having fun. but the schedule is tight and soon we gotta catch the rikshaw up to bhagsu, to get to the gipsey king cafe at 12:30 for the third eye transmission meditation circle with yitzhak. yitzhak is nothing you would expect from a meditation instructor - he's a cow-caretaker from kibutz kineret; graduate of the "happy pig" yeshiva; he's rough, offensive, and sometimes sexist ("concentrate on the the point gently but determinately, like with a 12 years old virgin..."); but when i finished meditating with him for the first time i couldn't help but laughing joyously for a couple of minutes, and then was just sitting by the side of the road, shining around and silently observing the world passing by. yitzhak came here with his 29 years old son and 25 years old girlfriend, and the free meditation circle he's leading every noon is his own donation to the universe.

the place where i live also deserves a spotlight. it is run by a nun and a local family (some monks and nuns here live with their families and keep their vows while participating in regular life), and has four big rooms with attached bathroom and kitchen (which i don't use). it is quiet a special place, which you wouldn't be able to find without inside information (shachar, who lives there on a monthly basis, was my own connection). you should get to mcleod's central square, where the jogiwara road and the temple road meet the way going up to bhagsu and the two legs of the circular route to dharamkot; make your way through the maze of beeping cars, construction works on the road, gathered groups of tourists, and sellers of fresh momos and woolen shawls - a mission which may first seem impossible, since jogiwara road is blocked by a truck that entered the market just to discover it is much too narrow to go through, and is now trying to reverse all the way back, leaving 5 cm space from each side and forcing everyone to step into the shops or the sewage tunnels by the side of the road... however, if you're slim enough you will finally make it to the pastery shop, behind which there's a small unseen alley, where you have to enter, walk between the two peelers of purple onion, and take the staircase down to your right.

after 50 meters of twists and turns a magic occurs - the clatter of the cars, horns and people is fading away, clearing the space for birdsongs and sometimes the cries of monkeies playing in the trees. it takes only a few more steps to get to my balcony where the whole valley unfolds ahead of you. in clear days (there are not too many of them) you can notice the huge lake in the distance, and in foggy ones you watch the mist charging up the hills, constructing a big wall of void in front of you. the balcony faces the west and is a perfect place to spend an afternoon or a sunset playing the guitar, either alone, with friends, or with my tibetan neighbours who are occasionaly attracted to the music.

in my first post from dharamsala i shortly mention my meeting with pema dorje (see picture), the tibetan teacher whose 4 days teaching on the four noble truths inspired me to start practicing buddhism seriously. our three meetings, or seven hours of quality time, deserves at least one fat paragraph, but i realize that i would have to write it some other time (i will rewrite this paragraph in the next opprotunity).

that is. i'm back on the road, with a well-trained, well-fed and well-hugged body, an open heart, and a happy mind!

Friday, August 19, 2005

a brief update

it's been another week, and this will be a telegraphic one, since i'm meeting frinds soon for a dinner at the japanese resturant (tuesday & friday are sushi days). the brief update is that generally i'm having the best time of my trip here. i have beautiful friends, beautiful residence, and beautiful daily routine. and i also try to eliminate the too high expectations i tend to have from the day to come and feel more thankful for the small things. the problems that the good things are sometimes too big, which increases the standards again.

i will start outlining my life here and continue tomorrow to revive the picture with more details. the daily schedule is an easy place to start.
from 9:00 to 11:30, after the morning chai at the peace cafe, i have an ashtanga (=power) yoga class, which is more physically intensive version of the rergular hatha yoga. it is a very good teacher, very expensive in indian terms - about 6$ per class, but there are 3 assitants around directing and adjusting every posture, and i am really progressing and getting more twisted then i thought i could ever be.

then there's a quick chai and tibetan cookie with the gang from the yoga - english sarah, with her wonderful positive energy, canadian martin/mendl/menachem - both have a great sense of humor, so we spend most of the time laughing (at least when i succeed to keep pace with their native-english slang), and shirley - a charming yoga wonder-girl (one of those things you gotta see to believe). then we have to rush up to bhagsu, which reminds me that i have to rush for dinner.

i'll continue soon.

Friday, August 12, 2005

dharamsala

it's been a long time. somehow i don't feel too much like spending time on the net or take photos, which is good news i guess. life here are quiet fulfilling, with an excellent combination of nature, hedonism, social life and spirituality. things are flowing smoothly, almost by themselves, and the more i stay here the more i am live the moment and the less i plan ahead - and even when i do i am aware that it's not much more then a mental entertainment.

the way from kathmandu was nice, and on the flight i met bodo, an
australian around his 60s who lives now in india (quiet low budget life),
writes about buddhism (he believes the whole thing has to be reformed)
and doing some business. he helped me soften the potentially traumatic
delhi expirience, get organized quickly, and catch the night bus to
dharamsala a couple of hours after i arrived.

as you might know, it was the english who united india in its (more or less) current structure, and though english is the official language, each place has its own language, without which it is impossible to understand the underlying fabric of local life. around dharamsala, i soon discovered, that language is hebrew (although tibetan and hindi may also prevail among some service-providing castes). first i didn't know whether to be happy with it (there's a sense of home-sweet-home after 5 weeks of speaking, reading, writing and sometimes even thinking in english, when you hear barry sacharoff in the lobby of your guest house) or disgusted. however, a couple of days here taught me that i don't really have to choose, just accept and enjoy the fact that i am eating breakfast on a himalayan foothill, and discussing the parking problems of my own neibourhood in tel aviv.

it is really easy to make friends here, and somehow you always meet each other on time even though there is hardly a way to connect. many people are dealing with spirituality and having meaningful expiriences, which makes a special atmosphere. i even have a cute israeli lover who lives 200 meters from my house in tel aviv... i meditate in some groups (one of them today was realy WOW!), walk around in the hills, and play a lot of music. i stay at a guest house is managed by the monks, dupong losaling monastery, which is quiet, clean and cost about 15 shekels a night (bathroom attached). the activity choise for tonight, for example, is between KABALAT SHABAT at one of the two local BEIT CHABADs, or an indian classical music concert.

things are going well, so it seems, and i am feeling there is inner development, emotional, spiritual, and also in my academic vision. there is alot of space to let things be - be they delighting or painful - and go through them slowly. even the unpleasant news about the break-in to my appartment, and my stolen sitar and electric guitar cannot change my general feeling at the moment. time, new expiriences, and my meeting yesterday with my tibetan friend and teacher geshe pema dorje la, eased the conflicts from the retreat and revealed the few next steps along the path. they also dissolved somehow the need for certainty and full clarity in it. i meet many people along the way, each with their own practices, and with their own (sometimes contradicting) ways of putting their expiriences and insights into words; but there's no doubt about the general direction - living, learning, practicing, loving, developing and serving others.

that is for now. i am sending you my love from here, and wish you a pleasant and inspired shabat.

Sunday, August 07, 2005

at last - my online photo album!


check this out!!!

get prepared - soon this website will be upgraded again, and feature online shopping of t-shirts with photographs from my trip!

Saturday, August 06, 2005

still in nepal

still here in kathmandu. to my shame, i forgot to pick my ticket from the travelling agency, being quiet sleepless, and very busy in completing all that i wanted to do in kathmandu. thus, i lost rob who went on to india, and stayed for a few days without siteseeing plans, until monday morning.

this leaves me the time to do some reading, guitar playing (2 nights ago i played to the guys in the guest house for 3 hours!), and finish the infinite labor of publishing my photos. however, i'm quiet down today. a few things that i tried to day didn't came up well, and i am feeling quiet lousy, quiet alone, and with no motivation to try andmake new friends for only 1 or 2 days i have here. actually that's why i wanted to get to dharamsala, so i can have a "stable" environment for 2-3 weeks.

it's strange, because some comment to me having the impression that i'm having quite hard time, and others get the feeling that i'm having the time of my life. generally my expiriences cover most of the emotional spectrum between joy and happiness, and hardship and lonlyness; but at the same time it is almost always special, interesting and beautiful.

going to pick up my loundry.

Wednesday, August 03, 2005

departing from nepal


pokhara was a short one. these days it is very hot, cloudy - so i only got my single glimps of snowy peaks on the bus back to kathmandu, empty of tourists, and the trekking areas are full of leeches (ALUKOT!!). on my trip to sarangot, the best top-hill view point around the city, i made a generous blood donation to these little blood thursty monsters, which convinced me to give up trekking and return to kathmandu after only 2 nights. however, the getaway was refreshing, the kathmandu-pokhara route was interesting, and about the lake the photos will tell much more then words.

on the bus back i met rob, a nice young englishmen, and we continued together to bhaktapur - which means "city of devotees", one of the three ancient cities in the kathmandu vally, which had most of the time its own kings who competed these of kathmandu and patan with the magnificance of the temples they built.


i fell in love with bhaktapur, which combines the beautiful mediaval architecture preserved by massive restoration works, trafficless streets, traditional and unmodernized local life, and temples found in every corner while you wander around the allies. in parallel to writing this post, i am struggling with technological hardships while trying to publish my photos from this shared dial-up connection (the text is short cause most of my time is spent on it). if i succeed, i hope it will convey some of the bhaktapur expirience.

tomorrow morning ,after one month in nepal, i am flying to delhi to start the indian month of my trip. this photo album gives me hard time, so i will publish only a small selection.

Friday, July 29, 2005

worldly affairs

i'm writing from freak street in kathmandu, once in the hippie days the local stronghold of flower-power. i woke up before sunrise, and went out to explore the old city center as it arises for the new day (see picture to get a feeling of it), and before other tourists do. it also enabled me to join the group of the narayan (one of vishnu's incranations) worshippers on their morning chant's, accompanying them with a cymbal.

i am in a relaxed mode of being, feeling pretty well, and i know a few people around, so the atmosphere is quiet friendly for me. after the retreat i felt like getting away from kopan and nepal as soon as possible, and get to dharamsala for about 3 weeks to make some friends and live enoyably. however, now i feel like taking things easy, leaving the date of my return to india open and enjoying some of nepal's attractions. tomorrow then, i am probably going to pokhara, which is known for the natural beauty of its lakeside location and its proximity to the mountains, as well as its laid-back hedonistic lifestyle (for tourists, of course...)

life seems to move faster then this blog (which is of course better then the other way), so i will not tell my stories too elaboratedly this time.

my stories begin just as the retreat ends, with a concluding meeting with lama lhundrup, who couldn't do much to relief my conflicts except for saying that the practice was very good and that i'm very lucky, tell me that i should take my time and keep going in the path of the buddha, and give blessed RIMON and a tophy candy... my hunger for human interaction also wasn't reliefed by the short conversations i had with the remainings of the above mentioned community of kopan western residents, so i was happy to take advantage of the need to arrange my fight ticket and went for a half day visit in kathmandu, untroubled by the sudden heavy rain that had just begun.

the same city which was overpacked and annoying in the first day i came here seemed now a colorful and lively paradise. after hanging around, and helping sunjib, the younger child of the hindu family that takes care of the three godesses temple, with his math homework, i splurged myself with a dinner at kathmandu's best thai resturant.

the next day i took a trek to the nunnery (a monestary for female-monks) up in the mounains. i left kopan at 06:00 and went down to the valley to see the morning village life. walking past the first village i moved through the rice fields, immersing myself in the unbelievible green of these planes.

it wasn't long before i began to climb again, and after a while i was instructed by the locals to leave the main road and take the almost invisible trail that climbes straight through the mountains. i was also informed repeatedly with energetic hand wavings that i have a damn long way to go. i climbed on, enjoying the changing surrounding as i gained altitude. the fields disapppeared and it became woody and rockey, and later also very wet, with many streams crossing my way. i walked through remote villages up in the mountains, unfortunately with no food or mineral water for a foreign passer by. it's been a beautiful trial and error on my way up, and i was guided occasionally by the locals, one of which also kindly showed me her breast.

finally, after 4.5 hours i reached the nunnery, which is extremely peaceful, and most of the time was just inside the clouds. i walked around, watched the nuns easily performing their daily activities, and had a visit in the temple. they also provided me lunch, which was highly important after i only ate some biscuits the whole day.

just when i was about to leave i met a group of nepali students, around 20 years old, which also trekked to the nunnery. they invited me to a bedminton game, and then to football with an empty plastic bottle, and i ended up joining them on their way down and spending together the second half of the day. they were a nice bunch of folks, 4 boys and 3 girls, cool, happy, friendly, interesting, sophistically humorous and speaking good english. we had a lot on adventures on our way - the rampant rain that caught us unprepared, visiting the sleeping vishnu temple while we're wet to our bones, and the tea at temba's home - which is just near kopan monastery - when we returned together in the evening.

but the most exciting was undoubtedly the meal with the villagers. cobirras, which is hyperactively creative and communicative, and also a painter (he made the drawing shown above), arranged an invitation for lunch from the villagers, which tend to be extremely kind and generous. their hospitality was really incredible. we sat there for 2 hours, and while the they were cooking the food, the nepali gang were singing traditional songs and playing a nepali drum, and niema tried to explain me all the jokes that ran around, so i don't feel isolated.

then a chicken was chosen among the ones running around the house, and i was offered the honor of cutting its throat. when i explained that i do not kill even mosquitoes it was vivek who took the unpleasant duty. anyway it was surly the most fresh chicken i've ever eaten, and i ate it the nepali way - using my bare hand - since they had no spoons, while the villager grandma making jokes about me... although the family didn't expect anything back we left them 500 rupees (about 7$) which made them very happy.

*** i have got my scanned pictures from the trek (this blog was written along the whole day), so i'm gonna put some real ones!!! they are all mine but the first.***

i will add my impressions from my interaction with them in a few days cause i'm short in time, so u can check this out later.

coming back to kathmandu introduced a different scenaio - eating and drinking out with friends, and enjoying the kathmandu hot nightlife scene. i met 3 from the kopan gang here, and their friends (ale, like a real party girl, managed to handle 2 guys in her week here). in the first night here, coming back to my hotel at half past midnight, i took my guitar and went on the roof, which is one of highest in the city. i expected to be rusty after 3 weeks without producing a note, but being on the road softens one's fingers and moistens one's heart, and the tunes sprang effortlessly into the night air above kathmandu roofs.

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

back from silence


or was it really a silence?

as far as it matters to contacts with other people i guess it was (beside some practical matters such as ordering food); but many things happen inside silence, and some of them may be quiet noisy...

it's been ten and half days until this sunday, with meditation, studying, contemplating on the teachings, doing some prayers and ceremonies and taking the 8 mahayana precepts about every second day - that is not killing (sounds easy? - try to do it with all these hungry mosquitos around you), not stealing, not lying (here silence can be quite helpful), having no sexual activity, no intoxicants - alcohol, drugs and cigarettes, no singing and dancing, no luxorious beds, new jewels, and the highlight - one meal a day before midday.

a typical day started at about 04:00 (the ceremony of taking the precepts should be completed before sunrise, when it is still too dark to see the marks in the palm of your hand), and ends at 22:00-23:00, though usually i took a nap sometime in the middle. after cleaning the altar and changing the water in the waterbowl - which are being offered to the buddhas imagined as pure nectar, lighting the candle and the incense - a tibetan incense created especially for meditation, there was a session of morning meditation; then a yoga session, studying & reading, thinking & writing, and more meditation. actually the daily program was varied along the retreat.

there was the monastic atmosphere, with the monks and all their evening chantings; the morning and sometimes night ceremonies - decorated with sounds of bells, drums and horns; the recitations of prayers and religious texts - which are done either collectively in the temple or the classrooms, or individually while walking around in the grass or around the stupa; the philosophical debating, which constitutes an important part of the monastic studies and spiritual progress, and it is said that during the debates they expirience realizations of the emptiness of inherent existence, which is the true nature of reality. these debates are highly energetic, and are performed through dramatic hand claps whenever one has a punch line to make, in order to crush one's ego; and there were also the occasional tantric ceremonies at the far side of the monestary, just behind my window, where the blessed ones who entered the holy gate of vajrayana, were singing mantras extatically with the background of what sounds like a didgeridoo, and it is also possible to sing the mantras through it, which creates a strange and beautiful sound effect. they were sitting around the small hangar, dressed with their maroon and orange robes and special hats which look like big cocks' heads (KARBOLOT) made out of metal. in the middle there is a fire, and two monks put oferrings on it, when all the others are ringing their bells in the right places.
all these things around you almost make you feel you are quiet normal to do all that you're doing...

i began my retreat with a day or two of emphasis on meditation on the breath - to stabilize my concentration. then i started to do some analytical meditations - ones that involve thought and analysis of certain topics - according to lama lhundrup's guidance: precious human life, suffering, impermanence, and death awareness. although i had some powerful expiriences with these meditations, i felt i needed a more specidic guidance in my retreat, and i searched the monastry's library and found myself a book with a teaching of exactly the topics i nedded, taught by the renowned lama zopa, who is lama lhundrup's guru. i went through the book slowly, reading a chapter or two per day, and then thinking and meditating on it. i also tryed to follow lama zopa's advice, and think that by reading the book i'm being guided by all the buddhas to happiness of future life, liberation, and enlightenment. Meditating like this makes you feel a closer connection to all the buddhas, and your mind causes you to recieve their blessings.

and indeed, the buddhas accepted my devotion with pleasure and granted me their blessings. i did my best to follow their path of renunciation, and began to taste the great bliss of cutting off my desires and letting go of the eight worldly concerns. walking around the monastery, i recited to myself this verse from nagarjuna's "letter to a friend":
accquiring things, not acquiring things; comfort, discomfort;
interesting sounds, uninteresting sounds; praise, criticism:
these eight worldly cincerns are not an object of my mind.
they are all the same for me.

nevertheless, after some time i began to feel a bit restless. my meditational concentration was somewhat shaken, and from my expirience i knew that it is time to mute the buddhas for a while and listen to myself; that this restlessness must carry some information. it seemed like there was something in me that didn't like the idea of letting it all go. the buddhas promised that cutting off desires doesn't mean actually letting go of things, and that you even enjoy more when there are no attachments. however, for this to happen you need no less then to give up this life in your mind; otherwise, it is no dharma.
- "and what about playing my guitar, what about the love of a woman? are these also worldly concerns, don't they have their aspect of spirituality?"
- "just a deep form of attachment!" the buddhas insisted.

the following days were filled with conflict. the battle was harsh and bloody, and i was rattling back and forth between devotion and resistance. it also appeared in my dreams (in one of them i introduced lama zopa to my mom). i tried to turn things around and around but by the end of the day the buddhas made their point again, clear and determined: "give up this life in your mind; give up this life in your mind; give up this life in your mind!"

well, i havn't...

my original retreat plan was to avoid the difficulties i have with buddhism and focus on meditations on the clear nature of the mind, with the hope that some realization of such nature would prepare the groung for confrontation with the issues of karma, rebirth, and the buddhist cosmology with the six realms of existence. it was lama lhundrup who directed just to these areas of conflict.

at the moment i feel that this retreat has made clear and solidified the gap between myself and tibetan buddhism, and made me understand that currently i don't want to become a buddhist. my trust in the teachings is not stong enough to have such a deep change in my life and my mind (the dalai lama said once that practicing buddhism is like performing construction works in your mind) based on the aspiration to complete enlightenment. however, i still have to deal with the challenge of finding a way to bring into my life all these things that i respect and appreciate so much in the teachings and in the practice, such as the power of compassion and meditation, and the weakening of the cravings to worldly things which is not complete nonesemse after all.

in the three days after my retreat i felt mostly a need to come back to life (which i did, and i already had some beautiful worldly adventures i will tell soon) and even some aversion to buddhism. i guess i need some time to come back to balance and see how i feel.

today i am leaving kopan for a few days around the kathmandu vally, and then dharmsala. tonight i am meeting ale, the spanish girl from kopan, for a dinner and a drink in kathmandu, and generally i'm about taking things easy.

i hope i didn't tire you with these stories. take care you all.

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

starting a retreat


well, there is still much to tell about daily life here (i havn't mentioned the multicolored butterflies, nor the fireflyers - GACHLILIOT - that make the evening air sparkle all around you), but writing takes much time thought and energy, and i feel it is time for me to start pacifying my mind and practicing more seriously. so, i intend to stay away from the internet and stop writing for at least a week, and hopefully more.

before that i will tell that i live here in a humble hut, not much more then a bed, though i can practice yoga inside with some limitations on streching my arms. there are 3 vegeterian meals a day, quiet good ones, which are also the time of social mingling. in the morning there's porridge, at lunch we have a big meal of rice and many side dishes, there's a five o'clock chai break and soup for dinner. there's alway some kind of home made bread, either western or indian styled, and a lot of peanut butter... in the dining room, we visitors have our table at the balcony, with beautiful view to the valley and to the himalaya range (which is not snowy these days).

it's been a week with special buddhist holidays - his holiness the dalai lama's birthday, and the day of the first turn of the dharma wheel - so there were many ceremonies and events. yesterday there was a magnificent chanting in the evening. the monks were divided into groups (according to their levelof study) and each sat in some corner of the monastery and did its own chanting. you could walk around and hear different chants from all around, as if echoing each other in a very enchanting way.


a few day ago i had an appointment with the abbot (principle of the monastery), lama lhundrup - the monk in the picture, to recieve some advice concerning my practice. he encouraged me, and changed my focus to the cultivation of right motivation - the achieving of happiness by all sentient beings, and to renunciation - which means weakening the attachments and desires. not that easy... especially since patricia has arrived...

that's it for a while, take care u all, and talk again after some time...

Monday, July 11, 2005

community life


so much to tell... i'll try to write as much as i can since i will soon stop writing for some time. i am beginning to feel good here, after ups and downs in the first couple of days here. i am getting used to the place and to the state of travelling, and forming my little habits that make me feel home. i also have more inspiration and succeed more in getting into practice. today's fruit is 2.5 hours of meditation, a yoga session, and some studying of nagarjuna's "the fundamental wisdom of the middle way", possibly the most important philosophical buddhit text.

however, the most important thing probably is getting connected to the people here. after feeling lonely sometimes at the beginning, and craving for some intimacy, i began to enjoy the small community of travellers her, which is marked by the sign of impermanence since people join and leave from time to time. not many of them came from pure "buddhist" reasons; rather each has his own story that brought him here...

lovely hamsa is an australian druze of a lebenese/syrian origin. her father is a respected sheikh in the druze community in melbourne, and her mother, who is a cousine of the singer farid el atrash, had to give up her musical side since for the druze music is part of samsara... nevertheless, hamsa - which means "whisper" in arabic - was named after farid's song "a whisper of love". carrying such aromantic name, she came here to contemplate on a harsh conflict - whether to marry her non-druze boyfriend, which her parents would never accept. she've been here for a month now, and she still havn't got the answer, nor does she know how long she is going to stay..

shachar left yesterday (leaving me his yoga matress) after 2 weeks, of which 10 days of personal vipassana retreat. he has a shaved head, big black beard and a lap-top, to work on his ma thesis in education & philosophy, dealing with vipassana meditation. in his retreat he could feel jesus, or whatever name you would call the perfect manifestation of love and compassion. he's continuing to dharamsalla, where inbal, his 5 years on/off mythological ex (whom i know by a way), will join him, and once and fol all they are going to give it a fair chance.

the list goes on with with spanish ali (alexandra - x pronouced like a CHEIT in the spanish way), a 20 y old student rom london. she doesn't care much for buddhism, and usually is more into clubbing, sleeping late, laughing a lot and hanging around with friends. she lives here quiet laid-back life, goes to the gate a couple of times a day to have a cigarette, and promises every day to start a mango-only diet tomorrow. she stated a one month of volunteering in india, but then felt she needed to think about her life and came to kopan.

essen (it's a girl name) in half turkish - half dutch, who can live neither in holland (too flat, too individualistic) nor in turkey (too closed minded and traditional), so at the meantime, nepal looks fine.

and there are also some buddhist visitors - canadian lisa, who is feefty something, and a serious practitioner who comes here almost every year. she has made a journy and walk almost the whole nepal on foot, raising money to a development project. australian eva is completing soon 4 months of volunteering here in teaching english to monks. mui from singapoor is quiet shy, especially with men, so i didn't talk to her much, but she says that in chinese tal means 'path'.

hakan is a turkush guy, an inteligent stock analyst with broad interests in history, sociology and politics. he was my companion to a wonderful walk to bodhanat - a big and important buddhist site a few kilometers from here. we started in the vilagges near the monastery, and i had a chance to see real nepali life, not the urban touristic version of kathmandu. we went alond the small huts, and the corn and rice fields. it is the season of planting the rice, which requires the fields to be flooded with water. it was raining the whole night before, and the water are gathered in the terraces which devide the valley into small pools where the villagers (mostly women) work in the mud up to their knees. we continued into the town (a small town landscape) and then the impressive buddha stupa - which is a hugh shrine built around some ancient relics. we ate a dinner of tasty momos (the local KREPALACH) on sunset on a roof top resturant facing the stupa, and hakan told me stories about the history of the jewish community in turky (including the shabtai zvi movement) and the view of turkish people on the islamic-western conflict. we climbed back at night just before the rain started again.

so it's quiet diverse as u see, and always fun to see how PETRUZILIA is called in six different languages during lunch (quite smnilar - from german to arabic). the animal community is even more diverse, and there are the sheep and the goat my neiboughrs, all the birds with their strange sounds, the big homeless slugs with the patterns on their backs, the cute frogs, and the unquestionably most dominant - the moskitos, t he greatest challenge to one's compassion and patience.

it is also an opprotunity to see monastic life here. there are about 200 monks from the age of about 6 (cute fun-loving kids - u can c 2 in the picture) who are used to the visitors and keep their routine going, with their ceremonies, studying and practicing, and also their playing (the big ones like a lot of chess) and chatting. i think the common feature to most people here is that they are easy to smile.

Friday, July 08, 2005

kopan


got very short time, and half working space-bar key.

i'm here in the gorgeous kopan monastery. great view on the kathmandu valley, very beautiful gompas and stupas (temples and shrines) and a special atmosphere. yet it is not that easy, going through all these experiences alone and also it's hard for me to get into serious practice so far.



getting here was quiet an adventure, since the road was corrupted by the rains, so i had to climb up the hill on foot, carrying my 15kg backpack, my 4kg daybag, and my guitar, in about 30 degrees hit and monsoon-like mosture. anyway it felt right somehow, arriving as a sweaty pilgrim and not as a spoiled tourist. when my clothes were totally wet a local car stopped and took me the rest of the way up.

they are closing the internet stations. will continue soon.

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

climatizing

contrary to my parents’ reports based on their trip in kathmandu 20 years ago, the city is everything but tranquil… my first steps into it, in the day i arrived, suggested that i was more tired, nervous and unfrendly then i imagined. i tried to find my way through the packed streets embedded with touristic shops selling clothes, local handicraft and travellers’ stuff, and tried to avoid the local way of making friends, which was always meant to end with me giving them money this way or another. the up side was that i could find a second hand “nepal” lonley plant guide and retreat to my nice guest house to rearrange my wounded troops for a more succssesful attack in the day after (knowing where you’re going is alway a good start).

a good sleep made things look different. the streets were still crowdy, mostly with locals since it’s off season, but there are many buddhist and hindu temples around, beautiful and intersting local scenes, and of couse – this forein atmosphere that slowly gets into your blood. i took a long day-walk, and then after refreshing myself had a good dinner of dal bhaat (the nepali version for the indian tali) and beer at a popular local place. the night ended pleasantly back at the guest house, with guitar playing, beer, and some talk with fellow travellers, which i needed very much after two days of solitude travelling.

anyway, after a good nepali breakfast (fruit salad of banana, apple, mango & papaya; lassi; hot vegetable dish; puri – deep fried bread; and a pot of coffe) i feel i can move further to the monastery. for a promo you can check www.kopan-monastery.com.

Monday, July 04, 2005

washed and settled in kathmandu


well, i'm here!

couldn't resist this all-too-green view of the kathmandu valley (it's monsoon time and it looks more cloudy and more green then in the picture), and stopped in the city for a day or two to taste some samsara before i leave this world for a while.
i feel great, clean and settled; even caught a most beneficial 3 hours sleep at the vip lounge at delhi airport (it takes 3 shekels to become a vip in india).

flight was just fine, and i got pleasant company on my way: a cute young israeli having a pre-military-service month in india at amman airport, and then in the flight to delhi i sat with rifaat, a half lebenese half mexican druze musician who lives in delhi, and plays at ashok hotel. he just returned from his half slovanian half jordanian fiancé who is supposed to join him in delhi soon. we enjoyed special treatment and extra PIZUCHIM on the house, since i soon discovered that the whole aircrew are big fans of him, and whenever in delhi they wouldn’t miss his spectacular hindi-spanish-arabic music shows. at the hight of 35,000 feet, he shared with me the ayur-vedan secrets of the black indian stone, which when used in the proper time, the proper place and with the proper intentions, raises man’s sexual potency to unheard of heights!

i had a few more chances to pip into different worlds - the bird-sight show began with the yellow-brown jordanian desert at sunset, and ended contrastingly with the magnificent himalayan foothills. i could also get some taste of india as a promo. i recalled how different things can be when the indian air-waitress (i know, i know, there's a word for this...) warned me about the exotic lemon juice i have just ordered ("don't worry sir, it's supposed to be sour"), of course she felt no need to mention that it came with salt and masala (an indian spice mixture)...

it's getting late. time for me to do the city.

Saturday, July 02, 2005

Is this thing working?


...guess it is!